![]() ![]() If you don't have the exploded view of the windlass, re-post a request and I will dig out my documentation and post it for you. Your instruction manual should show all of these internal parts. You may need to use a rubber mallet on the winch handle to break the drum free from the motor shaft. Disassemble the drum from the top of the windlass to correct this condition. Owners Manual for the vessel to which the Windlass is fitted. ![]() RETAINED along with, OR incorporated into, the. If you follow my instruction and the drum/gypsy will not turn, then I would guess that the drum and gypsy are frozen to the motor shaft due to corrosion. This Manual forms part of the Product and MUST BE. You should know how to do it but I would not do it on a regular basis. After the chain is raised, engage the pawl in the gypsy and then tighten the clutch with the winch handle in the blue socket CW. The pawl will engage and release as you raise the chain so that it will not drop back into the water. Then you use the winch handle in the red winch socket and turn to raise the chain. The center blue winch socket will unlock the drum and gypsy from the motor shaft via a clutch when turned CCW. You windlass looks just like mine- a Simpson-Lawrence Anchorman 1000.įirst you engage the pawl at the base of the gypsy so that the chain cannot drop into the water and the drum and gypsy cannot turn. I also believe that I could repair a part if I could determine what was required.The manual is correct. The cost and pain of pulling the entire windlass off the boat and sending it off for repair is more than I want to incur. But I don't want to drill another hole and put another piece of hardware on my deck. My current solution is to put a snubber or chain retainer device on the pulpit to hold the tension and keep the anchor shank and chain from banging on the deck. I don't know of any boatyards or windlass repair shops in SE Louisiana so I believe I am on my own. The only part I was unable to see was the connection between the main drive gear and the electric motor itself. I have also opened up the windlass and there were no visible broken teeth or slipping gears. I have checked the clutch nut on the outside of the gypsy. Monday, 9 December 2013 Simpson-Lawrence SL Hyspeed Windlass Restoration The manual windlass at the bow of my boat has always bothered me. ![]() I have searched the archives and found some guidance which reflects the data in the owner's manual for the 400 or 500 series windlass, but the 600 is different. It still functions both up and down, but will not hold tension on the rode once the anchor is snug on the bowsprit. Due to an emergency situation that resulted in a person operating my windlass who was unfamiliar with its limitations, my windlass has been damaged. ![]()
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